35mm Slides Lamp Shade

I was fortunate enough to inherit a few small boxes of old 35mm slides from the 1960s and 70s from my grandpa and dad.  Luckily, my stash of slides also came with a small slide viewer that will light up one slide at a time to about the size of a small cell phone.  I went through each slide one by one with the slide viewer and discovered some beautiful slides of my family taken all around the country on various trips or at special events. I want to have the slides digitized. Problem is, the digitizing service is kind of pricey and I have a lot of slides.

In going through the collection, I found many photos that contained beautiful scenery and shots of American life (mountains, beaches, city areas, and apparently my parents liked to take a lot of pictures of the 4 cats they had in the late seventies).  However, there were often no people in the shots and pretty as some of the scenes were, I am clueless as to the location or particular trip it was taken on. So, in my attempt to parse down the number of slides for digitizing, I decided to separate out some of the ones without people or if I couldn’t recognize the location.

That left me with a dilemma – what to do with all those scenic views and pretty pictures I wasn’t preserving digitally.  Off to google I went to locate a use for vintage 35 mm slides.  Saw a couple good ideas, like the one here:

Curtains from old 35mm slides

I finally decided I would make some of the old slides into a lampshade for a small lamp as I’d seen several places including some sellers on etsy.

Here’s is my finished lamp in action.

I’m pleased with how it turned out, even if it was a learning experience (see below).

It really wasn’t too hard to make, other than an initial bad choice in lamp/lampshade selection on my part. Here’s what I used to make it:

·         Old 35mm slides (my lampshade took 48 slides for the lampshade, but I also had extra slides on hand)

·         12 mm jump rings (I used about 4 jump rings per slide)

·         A method for opening/closing the jump rings (e.g. gloves, pliers)

·         Lampshade frame (see notes below on selecting a good lampshade frame/type to use)

·         Base lamp

·         Small craft drill

·         Pencil

·         Measuring device capable of measuring very small distances/spaces

For my first attempt at this project (keywords here being “first attempt”), I purchased a low priced lamp from a certain purveyor of Swedish goods and it taught me an important lesson. I didn’t pay attention to the way the lampshade was structured.  For the slide lampshade, the top of the lampshade frame needs to be supported by the center piece/frame that attaches to the lamp itself, with a “loose” bottom piece/frame.  This is in contrast to the first lamp/lampshade type I purchased which had the bottom piece/frame attached to the center piece and the top piece/frame was loose and unconnected to the lampshade part that attaches to the lamp.  

The first lamp had a kind of paper lantern material for the lampshade that came with it.  I guess that would have been lightweight enough to support the bottom/center configuration of the lamp shade, but it did not translate well to slides. The first lamp also came with little metal rod inserts to hold up and connect the top portion of the loose frame, but since the slides I connected together ended up being a different length than the paper lampshade, the metal inserts were too long to support the top part.

So just exercise caution when selecting a lampshade.  The ones with a top support connected to the center frame/part that attaches to the lamp seem to be best. I also recommend finding a cylinder or square/rectangular shaped lampshade where the top and bottom part of the shade are equal areas as opposed to a “bell” shaped lampshade where the bottom part is bigger/wider than the top of the shade.

If you are like me and you don’t have any old lamps or lampshades lying around, you will need to purchase a small lamp. I imagine there are some good thrift store lamps out there, I just didn’t have the time or patience to search out a nice find. So for my (second) lamp, I picked up one for $13-$14 at Wal-mart.  I checked the lampshade configuration before buying this time.

Most likely the lampshade will need to be altered to get it ready to use for the slides .Basically the shade needs to be striped to its frame, minus any fabric or covering. This can be done by whatever means necessary (cutting, ripping, etc), just make sure not to damage the frame part itself. I know with both my lampshades, the fabric and paper parts of the lampshade were glued to the  frame.  When I took the fabric and paper parts off, it left a sticky residue on the frame that I had to clean off with soap and hot water.

Once the frame was ready, I needed to get the slides ready to be made into the lamp shade. To get the slides ready, I first wanted to measure and mark each slide for where I would be drilling holes. I opted to drill 8 holes in each slide.  This way, each slide would connect with another slide in 2 places/holes for each of the 4 sides of the slide. I’ve seen it done with only 1 hole in the center of each side connecting each set of slides, but thought the 2 holes per set of slides looked a little more secure. Here’s where I put the 8 holes on each slide. The top slide shows an example of the markings, while the second bottom slide has the holes drilled already.

To mark the holes in a consistent manner from slide to slide, I used a steel caliber to measure and mark the first hole on a slide about 4mm from the top and side edge (i.e. where 4mm down from the top of the slide and 4 mm in from the side meet). 

I then marked a hole 4mm above the first one. 

Repeat this for each of the 4 sides of each slide.  I was careful to make sure I was marking the pairs of holes on each slide in the same orientation from slide to slide.  For mine, the 4 holes on each side of a slide went vertically, or perpendicular, to the horizontal text on the slide. In other words, I oriented the holes to be on the right and left sides of the slide, as opposed to running the holes along the bottom and top.  It is probably a matter a taste and how the slides being used are oriented as to if the sides are used or bottoms/tops, just make sure to be consistent in marking and drilling them all one way.

Once I had marked a sufficient number of slides, I set out to drill the holes into them.  I used a small craft drill and a 3/32 inch drill bit (at least I think that is the size).

Just make sure to put something beneath the slides while you are drilling  that you don’t mind filling with holes.  I used a piece of scrap wood and a carpet piece .I didn’t want my holes to be too much bigger than the thickness of the jump rings I would be using.  This is because the light bleeds out the holes once the lamp is in operation and detracts from slides being illuminated. I also wanted the holes in my slides to be fairly close together, while maintaining the integrity of the cardboard part of the slide.

Once the holes were drilled, I could start connecting the slides together with my jump rings. I used 12mm jump rings for mine, but different sizes may be necessary depending on the distance between holes or how far in the holes are drilled on the slides.

To assemble the slides, open up some jump rings to prepare them to go into the holes drilled into the slide.  It always a good idea to open jump rings from side to side as opposed to opening them out. 

Opening them out distorts the circular shape and makes them more of a pain to close. I also used jump rings that were fairly easy to bend open and closed by hand.  While you want to make sure the jump rings are thick enough and secure enough to hold the slides, having them be easily bendable is a big saver of hassle considering how many jump rings end up being used (4 jump rings per slide X 48 slides = 192 jump rings). If you get some jump rings that are not easily bendable, it may take pliers to open and close them.

Start with two slides.  Insert a jump ring into the top left hole of the first slide.  Then put that same jump ring through the bottom left hole of the second slide and close the jump ring.  Next, put another jump ring through the top right hole on the first slide and the bottom right hole in the second slide. Close the jump ring.  You now have the first two slides of the lamp.  Use the side inner holes to connect slides to the left and right of the original slides.

Continue inserting jump rings and connecting slides until the slides assembled are the desired width and length for the lampshade is achieved.  I constructed mine as one long flat piece and didn’t join the two sides of the shade together until the very end.

After assembling my slides, I put the two edges together to make a cylinder.  I then put jump rings through the top holes of the top most layer of slides and used those to attach the entire lampshade to the top part of the lamp frame.

I also attached the loose circular bottom part of the frame in the same manner, just using the bottom holes of the lowest layer of slides.  I think this part could be optional, either if the lampshade doesn’t have a bottom frame piece or if one wanted to attach dangles (e.g. prisms, crystals) from the bottom slides as an accent.  I would just be sure to pay attention to how the holes are drilled in the bottom of the lowest layer of slides, either drilling in the middle of the bottom of the slide or not drilling the bottom most holes so extra light is not shining through unnecessarily.

Once the slides are secured to the lampshade frame, just attach the shade to the lamp and turn the lamp on.  I used a 40 watt incandescent  light bulb for the pictures I took.  I had a 60 watt equivalent compact fluorescent bulb in it at first, but that seemed too bright.

Anybody else out there got any creative uses for old slides?  I’ve still got a boxful!

Video: Basic Silicone Mold Making For Crafting Purposes

Hello Crafty folks!

I made my first video tutorial!  I’ve posted it below.

This tutorial features step-by-step instructions on how to make your own silicone molds for crafting purposes from small objects. Using the product "Amazing Mold Putty" from Alumilite, I go over how to create a mold for a basic beach shell. This type of silicone mold can be used with diverse types of materials, including but not limited to: Polymer clay / fimo, epoxy resin, soap, and chocolate and candies.

Another great thing about these molds is, once they have cured, they can be baked.  For certain molded polymer clay pieces, I will just put the clay in the mold and bake the clay so it comes out of the mold already stiff. This is particularly helpful with those molds that may have thin pieces or that may be hard to remove from the mold without distorting the shape.

Sometimes I can find the Mold Putty for sale at my local craft store, but this is sporadic.  It is also available online at http://www.resinobsession.com/ItemPage/5323/Alumilite-Amazing-Silicone-Putty-Kit.html.

Pretty much anything is fair game to be the basis of the mold made.  I've used food items (like mini oreo cookies which were used to make the mold for the oreo earrings below), but other good ideas are: things found in nature (nuts, stones, sticks, etc.), dollhouse/miniature items, charms, even other items made from polymer clay or resin.

Check out just a couple of the items I’ve created from polymer clay using some of the reusable molds I’ve made (can you tell I like sweets? hehe):

Feel free to post some of your ideas for making molds!  What have you all molded or would you like to mold?  What kinds of materials would you put in your finished molds?

Thanks so much for checking out my video! For more crafty ideas keep checking back:  http://cosmic-designs.blogspot.com.

How To Make Your Own Customized Paper Envelopes

Hello all you crafty folks out there :-)

Okay, so obviously I stink at keeping up with blog posts.  It’s not that I am not creating new projects, just forgetful about taking photos/videos and writing up the details. I promise to try and improve in the future.

Anyways, I wanted to post an easy, fun idea for creative folks of many ages just in time for Valentine’s Day: Make Your Own Envelopes! 

Whether making them for a class full of Valentine’s Day cards or just doing your best to revive the lost art of letter writing, these customizable envelopes will add a unique flair to whatever note is held inside. The envelopes can be made in a plethora of sizes and limitless paper options so there will never be a lack of ways to personalize them to fit many needs.

All it takes is a few basic supplies (outlined below) and about 15 minutes before we can have our own pretty paper envelopes!

Here are the basic supplies needed:

• A envelope to use for a template that can be taken apart/destroyed

OR

• A print out of an envelope template like the one here in the desired size
• Pencil 
• Scissors 
• Glue stick 
• Any piece of cardstock big enough to accommodate the taken-apart envelope or template 
• Pretty sheets of paper (scrapbooking paper like the kind here works well Retro Pop-Paper pack of 32)

NOT PICTURED

• Scrap piece of paper for gluing surface

Some additional supplies that would be nice to have: 

• Paper trimmer like the one here: 12 in. Portable Rotary Trimmer paper trimmer each
• Corner rounder punch-out : Corner Punch rounded corner punch
• Labels if planning to use patterned-paper envelopes for mailing : 
  Multi-Purpose Handwrite Labels rectangular 3 4 in. x 1 1 2 in. 500
• Stickers or double sided tape

Making an Envelope Template

Assemble the supplies on a covered or washable workspace.  We will start with the envelope on which we want to base our envelope pattern or template.  If using a pre-made envelope, we need to carefully pry apart where the envelope seams are glued together.  I was able to do it without ripping the edges with a regular mailing envelope by just going slowly and carefully.  

If worried about ripping the edges of the base envelope, I imagine you might be able to “steam” the edges open by running the edges over a steaming tea kettle or something like they used to do when being sneaky in old movies.

Once you have opened up the envelope completely it should look something like a big diamond shape, like this:

Next, we want to take our opened-up base envelope and place it on top of our cardstock piece.  If the envelope was steamed to open the seams, make sure it dries thoroughly first.  Firmly hold or use a piece of tape to secure the base envelope to the cardstock, then use a pencil to trace around the edges of the open base envelope.

Once done tracing, remove the base envelope and check to make sure the outline is complete.  I went over my pencil lines with a blue sharpie to make the lines easier to see, but this is not a necessary step.

Then, just take the scissors and cut along the traced lines. The result will be a cardstock template that should match the original opened-up base envelope.

Tracing the Template onto an Envelope

Now we are ready to trace our newly made envelope template onto the back side of the paper we want to make our envelope(s) out of.  If this is an activity for younger crafters, it may be wise to do the above steps of making the template in advance for them.  That way they will have pre-made templates they can use and won’t have to worry about carefully ripping or steaming the base envelope.

Paper options for the envelopes we are making are really only as limited as our imaginations.  I like scrapbooking paper because they have many different patterns and themes available and the paper is a good thickness for folding and gluing. I have also used magazine pages and origami paper.  Paper maps would be cute as well. Just make sure whatever piece of paper is used is big enough to fit the entire envelope template. If I plan to use the envelope for actual shipping via the mail service, I would make sure to use a type of paper that would hold up in the mail.

For my example envelope, I used a sheet of 12 inch X 12 inch Valentine’s Day themed scrap booking paper.  If the paper has a pattern or design on it, I play with the placement of the template on the patterned side of the paper to see what will best match the design of the paper.

Once we have decided on the placement of the template, we flip the piece of paper over to the back or un-patterned side (whatever side we want to be the inside of the envelope).  Firmly hold the template to the paper and trace the outline of the template onto the paper with a pencil.

Once the tracing is complete, we just use our scissors to cut out around our traced lines as we did when cutting out the template. A paper trimmer can be used here to cut out the long straight edges of the envelope, especially if making a large number of envelopes.  If using the trimmer, just finish up by cutting in the divots from the envelope template and the flat edge for the bottom center.

We will now have a piece of our paper that should match our envelope template:

Rounding Corner Points/Edges (Optional)

If we want our envelopes to have rounded edges/corners, this is the point in the envelope making process we will want to do this.  I think rounding the corners off gives the envelopes a more polished look, but this is completely personal preference.

To do this, I recommend getting a paper punch specifically for rounding corner edges of paper or photos.  These can usually be found with other paper punches in the scrapbooking section of a craft store or they can be purchased online using the link above in the supply list.

Corner rounders are easy to use and not very expensive.  To round the corners of the envelope paper, just insert the corner edge of the cut paper into the paper punch as in the picture below.  Make sure to center the paper to the middle of the punch if it does not line up evenly on both sides of the punch.

We should have 3 corners we need to round, the two side flaps and the top flap (basically the 3 corners of our paper cut-out that aren’t the bottom flap edge side).

Folding and Gluing the Paper Cut-Out

Next we will need to pre-fold our piece of paper prior to gluing it together.  I recommend folding and gluing in the following order, but feel free to adjust or change up the order. We will use the following diagram of the unfolded envelope to guide our folding and gluing:

The 1’s above correspond to the two side flaps of the envelope.  The 2 represents the top of the envelope and the 3 corresponds to the flat end that will be the bottom middle of the envelope.

We’ll start with point 3.  Here we just want to fold the flat end towards the middle center of the paper, roughly along the purple line in the diagram below.

Fold the paper in such a way that the back or un-patterned sides of the paper touch.

After that, we want to fold our two side flaps in towards the middle center of the envelope roughly along the blue lines in the diagram below.

Don’t worry if the two flaps don’t end up touching in the middle, they won’t with most envelopes.

Once those 3 edges are folded down, check to make sure that the edges of the two side flaps have at least an 1/8 – 1/4 inch overlap with the edges of the flat-ended middle piece.

At this point, the top flap of the envelope may be folded down next in the same manner as the middle bottom portion (part 3 from the diagram).  I like to wait until after I have finished gluing as it makes the folding the top flap down easier to align with the rest of the envelope at that point.

Ok, now it is time for the gluing.  I recommend putting a piece of scrap paper under whatever edge of the envelope you are running the glue stick on.  That way, it helps avoid damaging any work surfaces and will prevent us from getting glue on other parts of the envelope (e.g. the outside or front part) that we don’t want it on.

I start by putting glue on the sides of part 3 in the diagram below.  I apply this to the back or un-patterned side of the paper and avoid the areas marked with red XXXXs below.

Moving carefully but quickly, flip the paper over to the patterned or front side. Then, following the gluing diagram below, glue each of the flaps’ bottom sides. Make sure to only put glue on the bottom side, not the whole flap.

 Flip the paper back over so that the patterned side faces down. First, I fold in the two sides flaps I just applied glue to. 

Then I fold up the bottom middle piece next, touching the glued side edges of the un-patterned side of paper for that piece with the glued patterned side edges of the two side flaps.

Press on and along the glued edges with finger tips, being careful to check the inside corners of the newly formed envelope are not glued together. 

Now we just let our glue dry!  If the paper used is particularly heavy or thick, it may be wise to set a big book or other weighty object on the envelope to hold it down while the glue is drying. If it hasn’t been done before, now is a good time to fold down the top flap of the envelope.

Some Tips and Suggestions

• ·         Depending on what the envelope will be containing, it may or may not need to be sealed.  Sometimes it is sufficient to tuck the top flap into the envelope and tie it with ribbon.  Or a small decorative sticker can be used as a seal for the flap. If the envelope needs to be sealed for mailing, I recommend either more glue, spray/paint-on adhesive, or double sided tape.

• ·         If using the envelopes for actual mail that will be going through the postal system, it may be a good idea to use white labels like the ones linked above in the supply list to write the address and return address on.  Otherwise, the text could get lost on the patterned paper used for the envelope.